VOLVO 760 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 1983-1990

Question: My clutch only engages when the pedal is very close to the floor.

Answer: Most likely the wires in the clutch cable have begun to fray and you need to replace the cable.
You should replace it before the clutch is damaged.

See more about this topic at Volvo 240, Volvo 260 Forum

The information is for the 740 and 760 years 1982 thru 1988
This is the service plate usually located in the door.
Here are what some of the numbers represent in the photo.
For brakes :
1 = Girling Front and Rear
2 = Girling Front and ATE rear
3 = DBA Front and ATE rear

For Carburettor
2 = SU
3 = Pierburg
5 = Solex

Fuel Pump:
3 = Bosch
4 = AC-Delco
5 = Sofabex

Clutch:
2 = Fichtel and Sachs
3 = Verto/Valeo

Alternator:
1 = Bosch

Steering Box:
2 = Cam Gear
3 = Zahnrad Fabrik (ZF)

This information should help with knowing what type of part you would need. Most of the brakes and other parts are difficult to figure out without this information.

Most of the time when you have a tire that is making a thumping noise its going to have a bump on the tire which usually comes from a broken "belt" on some types of tires such as radials. Other causes for this sound would be that a shock absorber is not functioning correctly or has loosened from its mount.

The term ABS means ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM. The ABS System automatically controls braking at the front wheels individually and the rear wheels as a unit (in most cases) preventing the wheels from locking during a hard braking situation. This enables the driver to maintain STEERING control and also shortens the distance to a complete stop. In cars without ABS, the brake master cylinder actually applied steady pressure to each wheel when the brakes were applied causing the wheels to look under heavy breaking. This led to wheel lockup, loss of steering control & lengthy stopping distances. ABS systems use a hydraulic pump that applies modulating pump pressure during heavy braking. The ABS system in effect pumps the brakes for the driver a consistent frequency. This pulsing is considerably faster than even the most experienced driver could accomplish if he were to attempt to this manually!

Converting from R12 to R134 freon seems to be a subject that is in debate throughout the country as to what is necessary to complete the conversion. Many mechanics say that in-order to convert from R12 to R134 you should replace the compressor, receiver drier and expansion valve. It has been our experience with car AC systems that the original systems will convert to R134 without major complications. We do however suggest replacing the receiver dryer, all O-rings (included in the conversion kit along with the 134 fittings), the refrigerant oil and rid the system of all of the old oil by flushing the system.

The A/C system has lubricating oil that will leak out when the freon escapes. A very likely place to look is the ends of the A/C hoses where the hose is joined to the fitting.

There are Vacuum hoses that operate the ductwork in the dash. Check each outlet vent in every setting, including the windshield defroster. If one or more has no air flow, the vacuum hoses (or 1 hose) could be disconnected. Find it and re-attach it to the vent.

A roaring noise that can be heard when turning on the A/C can generally be attributed to a faulty A/C Compressor but can also come from a faulty A/C idler pulley. Compressor failure should be done by a professional technician only. Idler pulley failures can be identified by removing the belt and turning the idler by hand to see if the bearing has failed!

The first check the brake fluid. Fill it to the proper level. If the fluid level is ok, there could be a problem with a sticking relay contact and in hot weather, the higher humidity would make it worse. This may also be caused by a problem in the ABS Control Unit or one of the ABS sensors.

Brake Booster failures can often be identified by noting that you hear a slight air leakage inside the vehicle that seems to change tone when applying the brakes. When the brake booster fails you will often note that the brake pedal feels hard and more force is required to stop the vehicle. Brake booster replacement is the repair!

This can be caused because the pads are a little loose on their mounts, which itself is not a problem. When you change direction, they will slide up or down until they hit the caliper bracket. They could be dragging slightly on the rotors if there is any buildup on the caliper pistons or if the sliders are a little rusty.

Brake Master cylinder failures can often be diagnosed by noting that when sitting at a stop sign or stop light with your foot on the brake pedal that the pedal seems to continue to move toward the floor very slowly. The rubber seals in the master cylinder tend to wear around the edges causing leaking past the seals. Replacement of the master cylinder is the repair!

In Most cases the problem with a hard brake pedal can be attributed to a faulty ABS pump. When the pump fails the pedal gets hard because the pump is no longer assisting during the braking process. In most cases the pumps are included in the ABS hydraulic units and cannot be replaced seperately. The cost of the New complete units range between 1500.00 to 2500.00 and used units are usually around 475.00 depending on the model.

Most car manufacturers do not recommend turning rotors because the majority of time after turning them they are below the recommended minimum thickness. The recommended minimum thickness is generally stamped on the rotors. This is not to say that car rotors cannot be turned. They can be turned one time but will generally warp within one year because of how thin they become.

In most cases when you apply the brakes and the car pulls to the left or right this can be attributed to a sticking brake caliper. Depending on the application some calipers can be rebuild and in other cases the faulty caliper must be replaced. If your vehicle is equipped with ABS brakes you may find that the valve body in the ABS system is malfunctioning.

NOTE: ABS brakes are under VERY HIGH PRESSURE and should only be worked on by those who are properly trained!

A Low pitched clicking noise that comes from the cabin fan is an indication of bearing failure within the cabin fan. Cabin fan access will depend on the car. In most cases the cabin fan is located under the hood and under the false bulkhead. In some cases the cabin fan is located inside the car under the dash.

Cleaning a car: a piece of cake, right? Certainly, if you follow the procedures suggested by the Car Care Council. While it's the most basic procedure in car care, it does deserve some thought. The first step in cleaning the car is to wash it. Give it a good rinsing from top to bottom, including the wheels and inside the fenders. Always clean the tires and wheels before washing the body, and don't use the same mitt for both. This way you'll avoid contaminating the vehicle's paint with debris from the wheels and tires.

Use a good tire cleaner with a stiff brush, to improve your tires' appearance even if you don't have white sidewalls or white letter tires.

Next, clean the wheels with a wheel cleaner that removes the brake dust, which often blackens the front wheels. Application of these cleaners vary, so be sure and follow the directions on the container.

Now it's time to wash the body. Use a product sold specifically for automobiles. (Household cleaners can strip the wax from the paint and damage the finish.) Starting at the top, wash one section at a time, thoroughly rinsing away the soap. Work your way down toward the front, sides, and rear of the vehicle. Clean the rear last since it usually has the largest accumulation of dirt and grime, which can contaminate the wash mitt. Wash the inside door jams about once a month.

To rinse, remove the spray nozzle from the hose. Starting at the top, let the water cascade down the surfaces of the vehicle.

Then, to avoid water spotting, dry with a chamois or other product made for this purpose.

Now is an excellent time for waxing, which not only protects the finish but also makes subsequent washing easier. Before proceeding, look for foreign particles on the paint. Use a car cleaner, available at auto supply stores, to remove contaminants imbedded in the paint.

Once the surface is clean, apply the wax, following the manufacturer's instructions for application of the product. Often they recommend not using the product in direct sunlight

Proper Washing And Waxing Add Value To Vehicle
More than one-third of car owners use damaging non-automotive products when washing their cars-products that could contain harmful detergents, abrasives and additives. And almost half of motorists don't ever wax their vehicles.

"Waxing at least twice a year is recommended for maximum protection, yet surveys show that 48 percent of motorists don't wax their vehicles at all," said Jeffrey Webb, director of retail marketing at Turtle Wax, Inc. "That's leaving money on the table at trade-in time, as a clean, well-maintained car can be worth up to 50 percent more than one in 'fair' condition, according to the Kelley Blue Book."

Motorists should avoid dish detergent, which contains harsh chemicals that, intended to cut through grease, will strip away the wax finish on your car. Some are hard to rinse off and leave streaks. For best results, a formulated automotive wash is recommended, one that gently lifts the dirt and grime while protecting the finish.

STEP 1 Don't wash cars in direct sunlight. Do wash cars in shade or in cooler temperatures in the early morning or late afternoon.
STEP 2 Don't use dish detergent. Do use a formulated car wash
STEP 3 Do fill your bucket with warm water
STEP 4 Do use a soft terrycloth towel or washing mitt.
STEP 5 Do spray the car often with water.

STEP 6 Don't scrub the car all at once. Do complete one section at a time, rinsing repeatedly to prevent the soap from drying on the paint.

STEP 7 Do use soft terrycloth towels or scratch-free fabric to dry the vehicle.
STEP 8 Don't neglect waxing the vehicle. Do prep the car for waxing using cleaner/polish to remove contaminants

The problem usually comes from a tire being out of balance that can be balanced out by anyone who has a tire balancing machine wether it be the "bubble" type or a computer ran type of balancer. A loose, worn or out of adjustment wheel bearing, worn tie rod ends, worn out ball joints, excessive wheel run out, bump on the tire, or a bent axelshaft can also cause these vibrations.

Your Volvo may have a faulty Converter if your Volvo will not accelerate or has severely diminished power. If your Volvo has these symptons, the converter may be clogged. If it is clogged, it may glow red while the engine is running. That happens when excessive unburnt fuel causes the converter to overheat as it burns off the unburnt fuel. One quick test can help to confirm if the converteris clogged. Temporarily disconnect the exhaust from the header to keep the exhaust gases from flowing through the converter. If the converter is the problem your Volvo's power will be restored to normal with the header pipe temporarily disconnected.
The only legal repair is to replace the converter with a new unit.

NOTE: The primary cause of converter failure is because the Oxygen Sensor(s) have not been regularly replaces. If you replace the converter be sure to also replace the sensors.

Question: I have a new battery and alternator but still not keeping my battery charged.

Answer: First check to be sure the alternator belt is not too loose. If so, it will slip and reduce the voltage coming from the alternator.
About 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of play should be about right when you push down on the alternator belt.
And you should not hear any squealing from the belt while the car is running.

Next, check the battery cables for corrosion.
If they are old, they could have corrosion that has worked it's way up under the outer covering.
If so, you may not be getting enough voltage to the battery.

Use a battery charger to get a full charge on the battery.
Start the car and use a volt meter on the battery terminals to check the voltage coming from the alternator.
It should read close to or just above 13.5 volts. If not, you may need new battery cables.

Finally, if the voltage is correct, then there is a power drain from something that is running or there is a dead short somewhere.
You will just have to listen and look carefully for the source.

See more about this topic at Volvo 240, Volvo 260 Forum

The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a pressure bleeder. You apply pressure to the reservoir with air and loosen the nut on the line to the clutch master first. Second, make sure solid fluid with no air comes out of the line. Third, tighten the line back down at the master cylinder while the fluid is still coming out. Follow the same procedure to bleed the slave as well.

Clutch Failures can often be identified by noting that the engine will rev up but the vehicle will not be propelled forward. This is an indication of a worn out clutch disc or pressure plate. It is our recommendation that the pressure plate, Disc, throw-out bearing, Slave & pilot bearing all be replaced when servicing the clutch. These components go through considerable movements daily and all will deteriorate and be in need of replacement at some point as well.
Other possible things could be having oil on the disc from a leaking engine seal

These problems usually expose themselves when the pressure plate or flywheel is warped, the clutch disc is worn or coated with oil from a leaking seal, worn out splines on the clutch disc, or loose or worn engine/transmission mounts.

Make sure the hydraulic fluid is at the normal level. If you have had to add fluid recently, you most likely have a leak. Check that the bleeding screw is not loose. If there are no leaks the problem is either the clutch slave cylinder or the master cylinder is failing. In most cases fluid loss can be found where metal hoses change into rubber hoses. The leaks can often be found at the junctions where the two meet.

If you have fluid on the master cylinder dust cover and pedal the rear seal in the master cylinder has probably failed. If you have it on the slave cylinder then in most cases the plunger seal has went bad or you have loose lines or a bleeder valve.

Question: Why is my car so hard to start on cold days? When it is cold my car will not start without repeated efforts.
Have changed plugs, fuel pum and fuel regulator.
After it runs and warms up it will start with no problem.

Answer: Could be the Cold Start Valve Possbily the Cold Start Valve is bad.
Have a mechanic pull the codes to be sure.
The Cold Start Valve is located under the intake manifold.
It injects fuel into the manifold when the car is cold to help with starting.

Poor circulation of coolant can cause overheating. Common problems that are associated with poor circulation is a bad water pump or impeller, restrictions from debris in the system, drive belt for the water pump has broken or loose, or thermostat may be sticking. It is quite common to see water pumps leaking from the weap hole in the pump bottom. Replacement of the pump is the only cure.

Other problems that can cause poor circulation would be collapsed hoses leading to and from the radiator. When replacing hoses its best to buy direct replacement hoses, if you buy just a flex hose make sure its the right lenght to avoid it being too long and becoming crimped.

Internal coolant leaks can be very harmful to your engine and can lead to engine failure if not taken care of very quickly.
The way to tell if you have an Internal coolant leak would be by your coolant level dropping with no signs of it on the ground. You can check by inspecting your oil. If the oil has a milky white tent to it then you have an internal coolant leak.
Coolant leaks as such would be a cylinder head gasket being blown, you can usally tell this by the oil having the milky white tent to it and also having an excess amount of condinsation in the tail pipe(s). This can cause lots of problems if not taken care of as soon as possible, it could possibly bust pistons, bend rods, and cause the cylinder sleeve to bust due to the little bit of capacity that the cylinder already has and having the extra coolant filling that up and when the piston come up it has no where to go on an intake stroke and thats when stuff bends and bust.
Another place it could be leaking from is the cylinder head if it is cracked. Most of the time a cracked cylinder head comes from overheating an engine.

Coolant leaks are a common problem with just about any vehicle old and new. The older cars most of the time will have deteriorated or damaged hoses going to the radiator or for the heating system. Some problems come from just clamps being loose and others can come from water pump seals and gaskets, from the radiator core or heat core, engine drain, or water jacket freeze plugs leaking or have come completely out.

Other things that can cause problems is if something has punctured the radiator by it coming up off the road or if a coolant hose comes in contact with a moving part.

Coolant loss can be potentionally a dangerous thing if it goes unattended. It can come from over filling the coolant system, overheating the engine and pressure forces it out, internal and external leaking (check our other FAQ on these two subjects), or a faulty radiator cap. If you have problems with the radiator cap most of the times is because the recommended pressure for your car is less then what the cap is made for. Always be sure to get the right cap for your car to avoid any problems with coolant loss or overheating. Always fill your coolant resivoir to what your car is made to handle, don't over fill this thinking it will last longer because you will get the exact opposite reaction.

The most common cruise control failures on the car are: pedals switch failures, The cruise control vacuum line cracks (on cars with vacuum controlled systems) & Control module failures. The pedal switch failures are the most common problem with the cruise control not functioning correctly. What generally occurs is that the pedal switches become mis-adjusted or the ears get broken off the switches causing a no contact condition. Another possiblity is a faulty cruise control vacuum pump.

Worn or cupped tires usually comes from a poor alignment most of the time, but worn shock asorbers, bad wheel bearings, excessive wheel or tire runout, or worn out ball joints can all be the likely cause for tire wear.

The light will stay on if any of the following are happening:

Faulty aternator or charging circuit
Alternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment
Alternator voltage regulator inoperative

If your brakes are dragging the most common cause is the caliper(s) are sticking and usually just need replacing. Other things that could cause this problem is having restricted brake lines and its not allowing the pressure to come off the caliper. It also could be an incorrectly adjusted parking brake cable.

The following may be the cause of your engine backfire:

Emission system not functioning properly
Ignition timing Incorrect
Faulty Secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, Faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor)
Carburetor or fuel injection system malfunctioning
Vacuum leak at fuel injectors, intake manifold or vacuum hoses

Generally, A roaring noise during belt rotation (without the A/C on) will often be caused by an idler pulley bearing going bad. There are occasions where Alternator bearings will also create a roaring noise during belt rotation. In-order to diagnose either of these problems simply remove the belt and rotate each of the pulleys by hand. The pulley failure will make itself apparent by noting that the noise begins when rotating the faulty pulley.

BELT REMOVAL SHOULD BE BY AUTHORIZED PERSONNEL ONLY! PHYSICAL INJURY CAN OCCUR!

Some reasons are:

Idle speed too high
Excessive engine operating temperature
Incorrect fuel octane grade

A loud clanking noise from the engine belt area can often be attributed to a faulty crank shaft pulley (harmonic Balancer). The crankshaft pulley is often designed in 2 parts & pressed together from the factory. The problems often come from the material that holds the two part pulley together. These materials will deteriorate over time causing the pulley to separate leading to one of the following symptoms: A loud clanking noise as previously described or a loud squeak upon initial start up. You can also identify this problem when you find that your engine continually throws the drive belts off the pulley for no apparent reason.

A compression check is a test that is done on a car by removing each spark plug one at a time and putting in a pressure gauge in its place. The engine is then spun over while the gauge is installed. Once the engine has reached its compression the guage will stop. The guage should stay in the same area without going down and as long as the compression readings are consistent accross all cylinders then the head gasket or rings should be fine.

Reasons for the engine not to start while the starter is being opertated would be:

Dead battery (recharge, use jumper cables, or push start)
Battery terminals are loose or corroded
Battery ground strap loose or broken
Engine ground strap loose or broked
Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken
Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, or inhibitor switch defective
Ignition/Starter switch defective
Major mechanical failure (seizure)
Starter or solenoid internal fault
Faulty Cam Sensor
Faulty Crank Sensor

Fluid leakage is quite common on almost any vehicle type. The first thing one must do is to attempt to identify the fluid color in order to locate the leakage area. Red fluid is transmission fluid, Dark Brown or Black fluid is most likely engine oil, Light brown fluid is Power steering and pink or green fluid is antifreeze. Listed below is the most common issues with fluid leakage:

Red Fluid: Transmission Pan Gasket failure
Dark Brown or Black fluid: Most likely engine drain plug leak or engine oil pan gasket.
Light brown Fluid: Power steering hose failure
Pink or Green Fluid: Water Pump failure or radiator hose or heater hose failure

This can be caused by vapor lock or a sticking fuel pump check valve. A warmed up motor produces a great deal of external heat. Fuel must be kept cool to flow properly through the fuel lines and into the combustion chamber. If the fuel system is exposed to the engine heat, the fuel will vaporize and interrupt the flow of fuel to the motor. This is called vapor lock. A fuel pump has a check valve to prevent the fuel from flowing back toward the fuel tank and to keep some pressure to allow the motor to start easily without having to re-pump the fuel all the way to the motor. This check valve can wear over time causing it to stick and making it harder to start the vehicle.

Some reasons that would cause an engine not to start when hot could be:

Air Filter Clogged
Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel injection system
Injectors leaking
Corroded battery connections, especially ground

Engine Cold Start Issues:
Battery discharged or low
Fuel system malfunctioning
Injectors leaking
Distributor rotor carbon tracked

Engine Hot Start Issues:

Air Filter Clogged
Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel injection system
Injectors leaking
Corroded battery connections, especially ground

Things that can cause the enigne to idle erratically or miss at idle would be:

Vacuum leakage
Air filter clogged
Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system
Leaking head gasket
Timing belt or sprockets worn
Camshaft lobes worn
Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly
Faulty spark plug wires
Incorrect ignition timing
Uneven or low compression

Reasons for this could be:

Incorrect ignition timing
Excessive play in distributor shaft
Worn rotor, distributor cap or wires
Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
Carburetor or fuel injection system malfunctioning
Faulty coil
Brakes binding
Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect
Clutch Slipping
Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system
Emission control system not functioning properly
Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures

Things that can cause a vehical to miss while driving:

Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system
Low fuel output at the fuel injection system
Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
Incorrect ignition timing
Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged distributor components
Leaking spark plug wires
Faulty emission system components
Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures
Weak or faulty ignition system
Vacuum leak in carburetor or fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum hoses

Engine oil leaks can be very hard to pin point. If it has been leaking for a while, everything is covered in oil but here are a few locations where it could be coming from:

Oil pan gasket and/or oil pan drain bolt plug gasket leaking
Oil pressure sending unit leaking
Valve cover gasket leaking
Engine oil seals leaking

Easiest way to find the leak is to clean the engine of as much oil residue as possible. Once its clean you can then start looking for the cause of the leak.

This can be caused by:

Low oil level
Idle rpm too low
Short in wiring circuit
Faulty oil pressure sending unit
Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump

Oil leakage from the Valve Cover Gasket is a common problem on most cars. What generally happens is that the gasket heats up and cools down so many times that the gasket eventually hardens up to a point where it no longer seals. Replacement of the valve cover gasket(s) is the only repair

Most times overcooling is not the issue on most cars, but it does happen. The most common problem is a bad thermostat. What happens to it is that the thermostat is not opening properly and letting the coolant stay in the radiator too long and its cooling it too much. Most cars do not operate properly untile they get up to a certain temperature and lack on power.

Another problem could lie within the cooling fans. Most fans work off what a contact switch tells them, so if your car is equipped with a contact switch and have electric fan(s) then the switch can be telling the fans that the coolant is hot causing the fans to stay on cosistantly causing the coolant to be more cool then what it needs to be.

The most likely cause is using gas with a lower octane rating than recommended. Check your owner's manual. Another cause is carbon buildup around the valves keeping them from closing properly. A couple of treatments with a fuel additive may help. Follow the directions and make sure you use it on a full tank of gas. This is especially important on Turbo vehicles because of the added air that is forced into the combustion chamber. High test fuel = better performance. Other reasons for this would be ignition timing incorrect, carburetor in need of adjustment or fuel injection system malfunctioning, improper or damaged spark plugs or wires, worn or damaged distributor components, faulty emission system, or a vacuum leak. Knock sensor failures can cause engine knock on acceleration.

If you crank your car up after it has been sitting for several days or overnight and it smokes out the tailpipe for a few seconds upon initial start up then the problem is more than likely leaking valve guides/Valve stem seals. What generally occurs is that the guides/seals wear due to the stress of the valve moving up and down so many times. This basically produces excess clearance between the valve guide and the valve stem. Minor seepage occurs during the rest period allowing oil to leak into the combustion chambers leading to morning smoke!

One common cause of stalling is vacuum leaks. Check all vacuum hoses and fittings including all large hoses. If your Volvo is equipped with emissions equipment such as a charcoal evaporative canister, the end of the hoses sometimes crack over time creating a vacuum leak. Stalling can also be caused by an erratic Fuel Control Module. Note: On some vehicles this is called the Electronic Control Module. This might be indicated if the motor almost stalls when you accelerate from a stop and then suddenly slams up to full power.

Other reasons could be that the idle speed is incorrect, fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system, distributor components damp or damaged, faulty emissions system components, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs, or faulty spark plug wires.

Reasons for an engine to start then stop immediately could be:

Loose or faulty electrical connections at distrbutor, coil or altenator
Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor or fuel injection system
Malfunctioning fuel injection system
Faulty fuel injection relays

Here are some reasons it may be stumbling:

Spark plugs fouled (dirty with gas or oil)
Carburetor or fuel injection system malfunctioning
Fuel filter clogged
Incorrect Ignition Timing
Intake Manifold air leak

Engine surges randomly

Your Volvo may surge randomly.
Can be caused by a faulty engine temperature sensor.
On some Volvo cars it is located on the intake side of the engine near the firewall.
It is a good idea to flush the cooling system and add new coolant.

The most common cause for engine surging is a vacuum leak in one of the hoses, other causes could be intake air leak, fuel pump or carburetor faulty, loose fuel injector harness connections, defective ECU. Check all vacuum hoses including the ones for the emission components.

This is some reasons why the starter turns the engine slowly:

Partially discharged battery (recharge, Use jumper cables, or push start)
Battery terminals loose or corroded
Battery ground to body defective
Engine ground strap loose
Starter motor (solenoid) wiring loose
Starter motor internal fault with Starter Bendix

Engine vibration in drive or reverse may be due to faulty or failing engine mounts. What usually happens is the rubber portion of the engine mounts deteriorate causing the vibration from engine rotation to travel through the vehicle. You may be able to find the faulty mount by shifting from drive to reverse with the engine running and your foot on the brake. This cause the engine mounts to come under load and you may see the telltale signs of movement that indicate a bad mount.

White smoke coming from the engine area may be caused by one of the following reasons.

Used Volvo Catalytic Converters

Salvage yards usually will not sell Used catalytic converters due to strict Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) regulations.
The EPA considers it a violation of law to install a used converter from a Salvage yard or to sell it for
reuse unless it has been properly tested and certified that it meets EPA standards.
And the catalytic converter must be properly labeled.
An auto repair facility or muffler shop is not even allowed to re-install the converter that was originally on your Volvo if you bring it to them for installation.
Violators can be subject to a $25,000 fine.

Swedish Auto Supply only sells converters that meet EPA standards and we DO NOT sell used Converters.

It is common to see water coming out of the tailpipe in the morning. Most of time water accumulates in the exhaust system due to the difference in the exhaust to air temperature that occurs overnight. This condensation is common and only happens upon initial startup. The only time to be concerned about that water coming out of the tail pipe is when the water begins to have a sweet smell. A strong sweet smell is an indication that there is a headgasket issue causing coolant to leak into the combustion chamber which then gets burned on startup. This burning of the coolant creates a sweet smell that goes away within a few minutes (once it is all burned out of the cylinder where the leak occurs). In most cases you can determine which cylinder the leak is in by removing the spark plug and looking down into the cylinder. If the piston is silver and not black then that is a good indication that the steam created by the coolant being burned is actually cleaning the black carbon (created from burned fuel) from the piston top. If you see this then there is definately a problem with coolant leaking into the combustion chamber of that one cylinder.

Exhaust System Purpose

The exhaust system is designed to carry away the engine's exhaust gases with a low flow resistance, low noise level and a long operating life. The exhaust system has two parts: a front part with a catalytic converter, and a rear part with one or two mufflers. Mufflers are a combination of resonance and noise absorption material. The exhaust system is held up by rubber mounts and uses clamps to connect the main parts.

Exhaust Converter Issues

In Most cases faulty Converters can be identified by noting that your Volvo will not accelerate or seems to have severely diminished power. Many times converters that are clogged up will glow red when your Volvo is running. The reason for the Glowing is because of the amount of heat and unburned fuel that collects in front of the clogged up converter. Converter replacement is the only option. A quick way to be sure that the converter is the problem when it is suspect is to temporarily disconnect the exhaust system at the header and allow the exhaust to flow without going through the converter. If the converter is the problem the cars power should be restored with the header pipe temporarily disconnected.
NOTE: It is illegal to drive your Volvo with the exhaust disconnected. If the converter is bad, the only legal remedy is to replace the converter.

Exhaust Rotten Egg Smell

A harsh smell coming from the exhaust can usually be attributed to the use of fuel that contains methanol (Although in most places it is not supposed to be sold). When using this fuel, a sulfur smell can be emitted from the exhaust which can range from a mild odor to a rotten egg smell. To avoid this smell try changing the place where you purchase fuel! Catalytic Converter failures can also cause this same smell!

Exhaust Failures

The most common Exhaust failures are mufflers. You can often easily diagnose issues with the exhaust system by placing a rag or towel over the tailpipe hole (Just for a few seconds). BE CAREFUL AS THE EXHAUST MAY BE HOT!!!!! When you cover the tailpipe hole up for a few seconds pressure builds in the exhaust system and a whistling noise will begin to occur wherever your exhaust leak is.

The exhaust system is designed to carry away the engine's exhaust gases with a low flow resistance, low noise level and a long operating life. The exhaust system has two parts: a front part with a catalytic converter, and a rear part with one or two mufflers. Mufflers are a combination of resonance and noise absorption material. The exhaust system is held up by rubber mounts and uses clamps to connect the main parts.

Some reasons for the mileage being lost can come from dirty or clogged air filter(s) which is the most common problem. Other more technical reasons would be due to timing not being correctly set, there is a problem with the emission system, the carburetor or fuel injection system is not working properly, or low tire pressure or wrong sized tire.

Another issue that can cause less mileage on a tank of gas would be wheel alignment. If the tires are toed in or out (toe is referring to if the front of the tires are turned in at each other or pointing out away from each other). Toe can be effected by pot holes and hitting curbs. You can tell if the tires are toed in by the car wanting to dart back and forth on the road and toed out by it having slower acceleration and works the engine harder to do the same amount of speed as before.
Most times it can be adjusted back to specs but on rare occasion such as a wreck or hitting a curb hard you may have to replace parts such as tie rods, tie rod ends, and any steering part that was damaged.

A fuel leak can be very dangerous and needs to be addressed as soon as possible to avoid any fires. A pretty common problem is a fuel line leaking. On older vehicles especially, the fuel lines can become cracked over time and split causing leaks or if the line is held on with a clamp, the clamp can easily become loose and leak fuel. Fuel tanks can also be over filled and run out if not cautious when filling up. Other things would be if the car has a carburetor it can be over flooded causing a odor and the engine not starting or if the car has fuel injectors the system could have leaks at the injectors, which in most cases can be repaired by purchasing new fuel injector seals.

Almost every vehicle has headlight adjusters on top and bottom of the back of each light assembly. Most dealerships and independent repair shops use headlight aimers to adjust the headlights. It can be done without aimers by adjusting the beam of light to be directly in front of the assembly and about 24 inches off the ground. You can measure this by aiming the lights at a garage wall and making the adjustments. You will find that one of the adjusters will adjust the light beam vertical and the other adjuster will adjust the light beam horizontally.

NOTE: Some headlights have levels located in the lights assemblies. These levels should be adjusted at 0 unless otherwise specified by the owners manual.

Volvo Headlight Lens Replacment

Replacement of the headlight lens instead of the whole assembly is possible but it basically depends on whether or not the outer part of the headlight assembly is available separately for your Volvo.
In some cases an insert (which is the outeer part and the housing it is attached to) can be replaced.
Insert replacement is easy but be very careful not to break the ears off the insert off when trying to push the insert into the headlight frame.
Lens replacement is easy.
Remove the clips that hold the lens to the lens housing and replace the gasket and clips to attach the new lens.
On some models, you will need to remove the entire headlight assembly.

On older Volvos, the lens is glued to the housing with clear silicone or glue.
To loosen the glue, remove the lens and housing and soak for several hours in warm water.
Carefully use a sharp knife to separate the lens from the housing and clean off the residue from the housing.
Use clear silicone to attach the new lens and secure with masking tape until the silicone cures.
After curing (see silicone package for cure time), remove the tape and carfully reinstall.

The reason that headliners sag on the car is because the foam between the headliner material and the glued portion of the material erodes with time causing the main portion of the headliner to sag. The only repair is to replace the headliner material by removing the headliner, pulling the old material off, cleaning the fiberglass headliner and gluing new material on. Your local upholstery shop can re-do your headliner for approximately $150.00.

In some cases electrical contacts on the removable bulb holders get dirty or partially corroded, and then don't carry current well. This can cause the Brake Lights or other Rear lights to fail completely or to fail intermittently. Clean the contacts in the bulb holders and also clean the contact areas on all the bulbs involved. Use a small piece of emery cloth, or a piece of steel wool. You can also check the connections where the wiring connects to the lights. Clean away any corrosion and make sure the contacts are tight. Sometimes you can use needle nose pliers to gently tighten them.

Another component that fails consistently is the bulb failure relay. When this occurs you will get a light on the dash to come on meaning the relay is faulty.

Intermittent no starts can often be attributed to ignition switch failures (the electrical portion). More often than not, mechanics change the starter because the symptoms lead them to the starter as being the source of the problem. In reality what generally occurs is that the voltage going to the starter is less than adequate to COMPLETELY turn over the engine. This is not to say that Starter assemblies do not fail because they do, but an occasional ignition switch problem can be a difficult problem to diagnose. In most cases when the starter fails it will be the starter solenoid failing noted by a click, click when attempting to start. Make sure that you check to see if you have 12 volts at the solenoid prior to replacing the starter. If you do not have 12 volts at the solenoid then look to the ignition switch as the problem area!

Reasons for hearing these type noises could be that the fluid is low, damaged or worn bearings or input gear shaft and/or output gear shaft. The first thing to check is the fluid if its full see if you can detect any metal and if so that should answer where the noise is coming from.

Your Volvo radio may not work after the battery has been disconnected. You may see OFF or CODE in the display.
Most Volvos have a radio code to prevent theft. This code usually is a 4 digit code that should be stored in a safe place at all times! When the battery dies you will need this code to make the radio play again, but sometimes the radio will go into lock out mode and say "OFF." The only way to get by this so that "CODE" is displayed again, is to turn your switch to the 2nd position on the key switch and let set for 2-3 hours until it comes up.

Once it has been reset you should be able to enter the code into the radio and should work. If you enter the code incorrectly it will say "RPT" and you get another chance to enter it in, but if you enter it incorrectly three times it will go back into lock-out mode and say "OFF" and you will have to restart the entire process.

If you do not have the code, you will need proof of ownership. Your local Volvo dealership can look up your radio code to enter in at no charge.

Sometimes the radio in your Volvo may not be the original. To get the code, remove the radio. Get the serial numbers off the unit and the Volvo dealer can look it up that way. The dealerships should not charge for this service!

On rare occasion the car will have to be taken to them to inspect it to make sure you get the right code. This can cost from $10 to $100 depending on your dealership and what they want to charge.

ONCE YOU HAVE OBTAINED THE RADIO CODE MAKE COPIES OF IT AND PLACE IN DIFFERENT AREAS SO IF YOU CAN'T FIND ONE YOU WILL HAVE A BACK UP COPY. REASON WHY IS BECAUSE IF THE BATTERY GOES DEAD OR A TERMINAL IS DISCONNECTED YOU WILL NEED THE RADIO CODE FOR THE VEHICLE.

These recommendations are for year models 1982 thru 1988 but may apply to more.

Engine oil:
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range of 10W/30 to 15W/50, to API SF/CC. SF/CD or better

Cooling system:
Volvo Coolant type C and clean water

Manual Transmission:
Temperature Climate - Volvo Thermo Oil
Cold Climate - ATF Type F or G

Automatic Transmission:
Models up to 1983 - ATF type F or G
1984 and later models - ATF Type Dexton II D

Rear Axle:
Not limited slip differential - Gear oil SAE 90 EP ro API GL 5 or 6
Limited Slip Differential - special Volvo oil (No 1 161 276-9) or gear oil as above with Volvo Additive (No 1 161 129-0)

Power steering system:
ATF type A, F or G

Brake Hydraulic System:
Brake fluid DOT 4

These are just general recommendations, some things depend on climates and other variables. If you have any questions talk to a Volvo Dealership or reference to your owners manual.

When you get a code or reading stating that you have a problem with the secondary air intake, it is referring to SAS or secondary air system. What this system will do is under certain conditions pump air into the exhaust system to aid in heating the catalytic converter. The main problem that causes you to get this code is the fuel pump of fuel pump check valve has went bad in the system but you will have to test everything in the system to accurately diagnose the problem. The air pump could also be defective. Use a scan tool to test it correctly.

Reasons for starter being noisy or rough can be:

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken
Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing

Some reasons why a starter is spinning but not turning the engine could be:

Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn
Starter motor mounting bolts loose

A whining or high pitched whirring noise that occurs at initial start up can often be attributed to a faulty starter assembly. Another area to look at is the tension of the belt. Weak belt tension can also cause a high pitched whine on initial start up!

A whining or high pitched whirring noise when you first start your Volvo may indicate a faulty starter assembly. When you attemp to crank your Volvo and the starter just clicks you likely have an issue with the starter solenoid sticking which means the starter drive needs to be replaced. We have seen issues with both the solenoid and the bendix (not sold seperately)

Hard Steering can often be attributed to binding front suspension components such as tie rod ends or ball joints. To test, release the front spring compression and check for component binding.

If after making a corner and you have to physically turn your wheel to be back straight then you may have some binding of the ball joints or steering column knuckle. Other causes of binding could be the lack of grease in the front end parts or lubricant in the power steering or rack and pinion, a front end alignment may also be the problem.

A Clunking noise that comes from the front end when accelerating from a stop can usually be attributed to a broken engine mounts. In most cases the engine mounts have support straps that will only allow a specific amount of movement when the mounts fail! In some cases failing engine mounts can be identified by noting that you begin to feel vibrations throughout the inside of the vehicle when idling.

Another source of clunking noises can be worn front or rear suspension components such as tie rod ends, ball joints or worn control arm bushings. A good rule of thumb would be any vehicle over 80,000 miles should have its suspension gone over thoroughly to check for worn suspension components

Inside Edge Tire Wear

When you have tire wear on the inside edge of the tire most of the time its due to tire alignment. When its like that the tires are pointed outward or toed-out. It can also be caused by inflation pressure incorrect or loose or damaged steering components.

Outside Edge Tire Wear

Tire wear on the outside egde of the tire can come from the tire pressures not being correct, going to quick through corners, Front end alignment is incorrect and tires are toed-in or the tires are pointed in, or suspension arms can be bent or twisted.

Tire Wear in one location

Having one spot on the tire that is bald or worn can come from the tires being out of balance, damaged or bent wheel that needs to be inspected, or a possible defective tire.

If your fluid is brown or smells burnt, it needs changing. Its a good idea to change the filter while you are in there. Do NOT over fill the transmission when refilling, if over filled it can cause seals to leak.

Automatic transmissions are very complex and not easy for just anyone to diagnose whats wrong with it or where its leaking. Best way to find the leaks are to jack the car up and put on jack stands for safety. Then use a degreaser or cleaner to remove all the dirt and grime from the transmission. Lower the vehicle and drive it at very slow speeds to keep from blowing the leaking fluid far from its source. Then put the car back on jack stands and look for the leak.
Common places for it to leak from is the fluid pan, filler pipe, cooler lines, or speedometer sensor.
If its coming from the pan, most likely its going to be the gasket and just needs changing (its a good idea to change the filter while your in there if the car is equiped with it). Other parts, depending on where they are leaking, either will have to be replaced or tightend.

Why Does My Manual Transmission Grind when shifting?

If the clutch is working properly, the most likely cause of grinding when shifting into forward gears is worn or broken synchronizers in the transmission. Rebuilding the transmission is the only repair. If the grinding happens when shifting into reverse, make sure the car is not moving forward. Many cars do not have synchronizers for reverse.

Some of the probable causes for the transmission to leak is that the transmission was over filled. If you over fill the transmission the fluid will find its way out through a seal or wherever because the transmission is not meant to be over filled, loose or broken input shaft bearing retainer or its o-ring or lip seal is damaged. If you just filled it up and its leaking, it could be due to over filling or not retightening the plug all the way.

This problem can be caused by a few different things such as worn or improperly adjusted linkage, transmission is loose and not all the way up on the bellhousing/engine block, shifter linkage is binding up, input shaft bearing retainer broken or loose, or you have a worn shift fork. The likely cause for this is probably going to be the bolts have backed out of the bellhousing or engine block or you have a problem with the shifter binding up on something.

These symptoms can be caused by many different things on an Automatic Transmission because it has so many things that can go bad. The main concern for someone checking this out at home would be the fluid. Make sure that the fluid is full in the transmission. Another thing that can help the problem is to change the filter and fluid if the fluid looks dirty, sometimes the filter can become clogged up with stuff and this will cause shifting or slipping problems.
A way to tell if your going to have to change the transmission is by inspecting the fluid when you change the filter, if the fluid has any type of metal or shavings in there, you're going to have to get a new transmission because that one is going to go out before too much longer.

The probable cause for this would be that the Throttle Valve or downshift cable is out of adjustment.

Turbochargers get VERY hot: not only are they driven by the flow of hot exhaust gas and the internal turbine can spin as fast as 100k RPM!
Warm-up isn't much of a problem: once you have adequate oil pressure, you can start driving.
Warm-DOWN, though, can be especially important for older cars. If you turn the engine off as soon as you reach your destination
the oil inside theturbocharger could burn, creating a thin coating on the inside of the turbo.
Eventually, this layer can build up enough to cause the turbocharger to be starved of oil, and fail.
In fact, some manufacturers have started installing pumps that continue to push the oil through the turbocharger for a few minutes
after the car has been turned off.
Also, you might consider switching to synthetic oil, since it may be better at keeping its nominal viscosity,
and burns at a significantly higher temperature than standard oil.

Ways to prevent failures would be to make sure that the engine is full of clean oil, keep the air filters clean, make sure all hoses and duct work for the air intake system are free from holes and other things to prevent dust and dirt getting in the system.

Always warm up the engine for 2-5 minuter before throttling up. What this does is allows the proper oil pressure and circulation to be maintained to prevent failures due to oil while placing the engine and turbo under a load. Let the engine idle for about 2 minutes before shutting down, this is called a cool-down time that keeps oil from building up inside the turbo on the wheel and shaft and causing future problems and malfunctions.

Turbocharger failures can be attributed too long between oil changes or the lack of oil in the engine. The turbocharger runs at very high speed so the lack of oil will quickly cause overheating and destroy the bearing. Long distances between oil changes cause "Coking" in the turbo lubrication areas which will lead to bearing failure. It is highly recommended to replace the oil supply line when replacing turbochargers. The reason for this is because poor lubrication to the turbo is sometimes caused by a gummed up oil supply line to the turbocharger.

Other problems that can cause Turbo failure is inlet restrictions from dirty air filters, collapsed hoses or undersized air pipes. The less air intake by the engine causes the exhaust to heat up leading to cracking and scaling of the turbine housing. This can also be caused by over fueling the engine. Hot engine shut downs can lead to oil leakage by causing oil to coke up in the oil drain and forcing oil out around the turbine and seals.
Foreign objects are another commen cause for damage to the compressor or turbine wheels.

Things that also could happen is droping objects into the air intake system such as nuts, bolts, and tools.

Turbocharger failures can often be identified by noting that Small puffs of grey/white smoke begin to stream from the tailpipe when coming to a stop. This is usually an indication that the clearance between the impeller shaft and bearings have become excessive allowing oil to leak past the seals. Another indication of excessive bearing clearance is noting that large amounts of oil show up in the intake manifold.

NOTE: In most cases you can pull the hose that goes to the compressor side (silver aluminum side) and see if the veins on the turbo shaft can be moved manually. If not, the turbo is seized and must be replaced. Keep in mind that some failing turbochargers will only lockup once the engine is running because the veins will jam against the side of the compressor housing once the turbo spools up.

Turbo Charger Maintenance

Turbochargers eventually fail due to wear.

The tubo is lubricated with oil from the engine.
If you keep your oil changed regularly, you can
extend the life of the turbo.

The inability to select gears on manual transmission cars can often be attributed to failed clutch components. Other things could be a faulty transmission, clutch fork or bearing not assembled correctly, a bad pressure plate, or the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel could be loose.
Some transmission have fingers that the gear selector clicks into to pull it out of gear. If that finger was broken off there is no way to get it out of the gear that its stuck in without replacing the bad part. This is a common problem due to improper shifting and "slamming" gears.

Vibrations in a car can be caused by a number of issues. In most cases the vibrations come from engine mounts but they can also come from transmissions, wheel bearings, out of round tires or out of balance, worn out U-joint, or damaged axelshafts.

Volvo 760 PRODUCT PLATES

Order the correct Volvo car parts for your Volvo 760

Engine Overheating is cause by anything that leads to the loss of coolant, preventing the coolant from getting rid of heat or causes excess heat in the engine itself.
Somethings that can lead to engine overheating could be coolant leaks from parts of the engine such as the water pump, radiator, heater core, hoses, freeze plugs, head gasket, and other internal engine parts. Other things like the radiator cap not rated strong enough to hold the pressure, cooling system may be clogged by deposits building up in the radiator, thermostat stuck shut, anything dealing with the fan such as relays or switches for electric fans, fan clutch for manual, missing parts of the fan shroud, slipping fan belt on manual fans, bad water pump impeller, collapsed coolant hoses, debris in the radiator, timing on engine off, restrictions in the exhaust system, or undersized radiator or fan.

There are many things that can be the suspect when dealing with an overheating problems but with running the proper test it should narrow down to a few possible problems!

Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral that has crystals from long thin fibers. It became very popular with manufactures and builders in the late 19th century due to its resistance to heat, electrical, chemical damage, sound absorption and tensile strength.

On automobiles it can be found in brakes, gaskets, and clutch disc on the older cars. Since about the mid 1980's parts containing asbestos have been eliminated.

When working on a car that may have parts with asbestos always wear a breathing apparatus to avoid inhaling the dust as much as possible. Exposure to this for a long period of time can lead to serious illnesses like mesothelioma.